19 Feb 2012

Up to my Neck in Kaazi


Although land locked, Uganda and the Great Lakes region strangely has a strong maritime history.  The lakes that run through the area may be home to the troublesome and widespread Bilharzia virus, but also huge numbers of game, and more recently that precious commodity…oil.  Although this latest discovery is making the headlines in East Africa, as industry leaders start to gather on the lake shores like flocks of pink flamingos, it is in history that the more interesting stories lie. 
For instance few people will be aware of a small WWI skirmish between the Austro-Hungarians and the English-Belgium Allies with the World’s longest and second deepest freshwater lake as its backdrop.  However during the start of the Great War, the Brits discovered that the Germans had a number of active craft on Lake Tanganyika and were getting ready to launch another, bristling with arms, to patrol and control its’ newly created African colonies.  To cut a long yet interesting story short, the British sent their ‘best’ man down to South Africa with two new gunships, and no doubt enlisting the help of a few friendly locals, transported the boats by train, ferry and oxen, overland for 2,000 miles to their launching point in the modern day DRC.  Here, in 1915-16 the ships hunted their enemy and she was eventually scuttled by the Germans, however in the 20’s she was once again raised from the lake bed, dusted down and began to operate as a ferry.  To this day the MV Liemba still travels the length of the lake, albeit with a slightly different cargo, nearly 100 years since her baptism by the Germans.
In Uganda on the other hand, there may not have been any military incursions, but the country is home to what was a highly strategic and important water source prior to and during the two World Wars.  Which is why John Hemming Speke’s discovery of Lake Victoria in 1858, allowed the Queen and her politicos to sleep soundly at night, safe in the knowledge that the source of the mighty Nile, which ran through British controlled Sudan and Egypt, was safe from any ‘dirty foreigners.’
The securing of the lake not only protected the British assets further downstream but also allowed them to establish a base for a truly British sport; sailing, and seventy-seven years on from the creation of the Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club in 1935 they can still be found at Kaazi, in Kampala.  As part of our active Uganda 2012, Helen and I decided that this was most certainly an opportunity to take, so we jumped into a couple of lasers and set sail…only to capsize instantly under the strong Southerly winds.  However buoyed (sorry) with frustration and competition, after two weekends of practice we were both on our way towards partial respectability within the Ugandan sailing fraternity, and who knows, maybe we’ll actually win one of their prestigious races someday, I’ll certainly be coming back during the next few years.